Apparently we took the slow boat to china train. Expecting a long train, we were surprised to see one of about 4 cars.....a local.....28 stops till the French border. We, however, are glad, as this is a most scenic route over the Grande Pyrenees, separating Spain from France. Gracefully wandering from village to village, through wooded hills and mountains, by streams and farms to change trains at the border.....Their border patrol looked at my passport and only at the cover of Rosemary’s. A tough crossing. Down to Taulouse, change trains again to Breive, on the Paris run in a fast comfortable train at last.

We are greeted by Chantel and Rene, the guardians of C. de la Rogue during Shirley’s absence and given the tour. After a coin toss, Rosemary and myself move into the Garret overlooking the River, high atop the manse. What a lovely and wondrous view it is.....the River.....fall colors upon the trees and earth and a church steeple, surrounded by a small village , seen in the distance, against the opposing face of the gorge of the Dordogne. We embrace and it’s "Happy Anniversary Darling !".

    The days go by in a blur. One spent lounging  about the house and grounds, indolently arting, writing, napping, wining and dining and the remainder of our days here, motoring from ville to ville, seeing the sights of the Dordogne and beyond. Martel the nearest village of any appreciable size is surveyed, money machine found, stores visited. Rocamadour, a village with it’s slender castle keep towering above it. The extraordinary profile of this village clinging to the cliff face seems to defy gravity in it’s construction. A picnic is enjoyed beneath it’s ancient watchful gaze.

    Sarlat - La Canada.....an ancient inner city where around the corner from a 17 franc cup of coffee is found one for 5 francs an amazing difference of $2 a cup U S.

    Beynac castle is toured, rising high from the top of the rock over looking the beautiful Dardogne valley, winding between hills crowned with castles and once the home of Richard the Lion Heart in his unsuccessful quest to conquer France. The incredibly bucolic country side, spread forever outward, below in a sea of the plowed and verdant plots of farms that seem to come unchanged through the ages.

a Chateau in Collonges la Rouge

    Collonges la Rouge.....the village grew up in the 8th century around it’s Romanesque church.....It is manifested in the red sandstone, indigenous to this part of the countryside. This was the playground for nobility during the 16th century. For their holidays they constructed charming manors and mansions flanked with towers and turrets. In a blink, it is easy to imagine being of that time, listening to the geese and ambling the lanes set between the red stone walls surrounding the wondrously ancient homes in this village of no cars.

    The farms, villages and country side will long be remembered as will the dinners at Chateau de la Roque, the first "Home Cooking" of our trip, and the cordial evenings spent in front of the hearth, the warm glow of the flames cascading out upon us, as will the days of wandering the garden and grounds and lounging on the terrace over looking the River Dordogne.

Another tale in life's continuing saga by Raymond Ellstad