Firenze

Italia

Fall of 95

LOGGIA OF THE
PENSIONE SORELLE BANDINI

"MADONNA !!!", WELL HERE WE ARE IN FIRENZE !! 26 HOURS AFTER WE LEFT HOME, WE HAVE ARRIVED AT OUR FIRST DESTINATION AND HAVE CHECKED IN TO THE PENSIONE SORELLE BANDINI, AT AND ON THE PIAZZA SANTO SPIRITO # 9. SHOWERED AND READY FOR ACTION.....THE ACTION OF TOTAL COLLAPSE !!

IT WAS A JOURNEY INDEED. ROSEMARY AND I TRAVELED ON TWO DIFFERENT AIRLINES, AS TRICIA GAVE HER COLLECTED MILEAGE TO US. ROSEMARY ON AMERICAN AND MYSELF ON DELTA. DELTA WOULDN' T LET ME BOOK DIRECTLY WITH THEM HOWEVER. THE MILES T HAD WERE WITH AERO MEXICO, WHO HAVE AN AGREEMENT WITH DELTA. NONE THE LESS, I WAS DIRECTED TO AND DID BOOK WITH AERO MEXICO AND THEY BOOKED ME THROUGH ON DELTA. GO FIGURE !! ROSEMARY STOPPED IN CHICAGO AND TRANSFERRED TO A WIDE BODY AND OFF TO MILANO. I TOUCHED DOWN IN PHOENIX (ONE HOUR), NEW YORK (TWO HOURS) AND ALSO WENT WIDE TO MY RECEIVER IN MILANO. WE RECONNECTED THERE AND WERE ON OUR WAY ONCE AGAIN. THE MILANO AIRPORT IS A ONE HOUR BUS RIDE FROM THE CITY AND THE STAZIONE CENTRALE TRAIN STATION. A GRAND STATION IT IS TOO. HIGH, HIGH VAULTED CEILINGS. A HUB CITY WITH MANY TRACKS. A STATION NOT ADMIRED BY MOST ITALIANS AS IT WAS BUILT BY THE FASCISTS !! NOT BEING ITALIAN, I LIKED IT. ROSEMARY IS PART ITALIAN, YET BEING OF CARDIFF BY THE SEA, NOT OF ITALY, SHE LIKED IT TOO.

TO INFORMATION WE WENT AND GOT OUR EUROPASS ACTIVATED, FOUND WHICH TRAIN WE WERE TO BOARD AND TOOK THE IC (INNER CITY) EXPRESS TO FIRENZE, BIRTHPLACE OF THE RENAISSANCE. WOW !! MADONNA !!

OUR FIRST NIGHT WE SHOWER / DRESS AND STRUGGLE TO KEEP AWAKE TO OVERCOME THE JET LAG AS RAPIDLY AS POSSIBLE AND WANDER OFF INTO THE NIGHT TO FIND THE TRATTORIA CASALINGA, NEAR OUR PENSIONE, WHICH COMES HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, NOT ONLY FOR THE FOOD, BUT ALSO FOR THE PRICE. WE WANDER UP AND DOWN LOOKING FOR THE NUMBER AND FINALLY ASK, "DOVE E LA TRATTORIA CASALINGA ?" RIGHT DOWN IN THE NEXT BLOCK UNDER THE DISC WITH THE TELEPHONE IS THE REPLY. THERE IS NO SIGNAGE BUT THERE IS A COUPLE PERUSING A MENU ON THE WALL NEXT TO A ROLL DOOR UNDER A PHONE SIGN.

IT DOESN'T LOOK PARTICULARLY INVITING IN THIS STATE BUT THE MENU DOES AND IT OPENS AT 7. WE MEANDER OFF AND RETURN AT THE APPROPRIATE HOUR TO FIND A SMALL QUEUE. SOON THE INDUSTRIAL PORTAL RISES TO REVEAL A PERFECTLY CHARMING TRATTORIA........FILE IN.....CHOOSE A SEAT.....RE CONSULT THE MENU AND OPT FOR THE PENNIE PASTA WITH FUNGHI (MUSHROOMS) AND THE LINGUA (TONGUE) WITH SALSA VERDE, WHICH TURNS OUT TO BE SIMILAR TO PESTO.......YES !! WE ALSO FOLLOW THE EQUALLY BEAUTIFUL AND CHARMING HOSTESS'S ADVICE AND HAVE THE ENSALATA POPULAR, MIXED SALAD WITH WHITE BEANS. A WONDERFUL FIRST DINING EXPERIENCE IN ITALIA. THE RESTAURANT IS SOON FULL WITH A LINE WAITING TO GET IN AND WE ARE GLAD TO BE AMERICANS, ONE OF THE FEW CULTURES IN THE WORLD THAT LIKES TO EAT EARLY.

WE WERE THEN OFF TO STROLL THROUGH THE ANCIENT STREETS. ACROSS THE RIVER ARNO ON THE PONTE VECCHIO, STRAYING IN THE PIAZZAS, OR IS THAT PIAZZI ? IN FRONT OF THE UFFIZI GALLERY WE PAUSE IN THE COURT YARD TO LISTEN TO THE ECHOING MELODIES OF A FLAUTIST PLAYING BACH AND ADD OUR L 1000 TO HIS HAT.

I AM WHELMED BY THE ARCHITECTURE AND THE AMBIANCE. GLAD TO BE HERE. GLAD TO BE ALIVE. BY NOW IT IS AFTER TEN AND IT'S BACK TOWARD OUR PENSIONE. WE PASS IN FRONT OF THE TRATTORIA CASALINGA AND SEE THAT IT IS STILL FULL AND KNOW WHY. WE STOP FOR A GELATTO, RUM RAISIN FOR ME AND HAZELNUT FOR ROSEMARY. THEN IT'S UP TO OUR LOGGIA TO INDULGE IN IT AND OFF TO SLEEP TO CUDDLE AND SHARE OUR WARMTH THROUGH THE COOL FIRENZE NIGHT.

Painting the loggia of the Sorelle BandiniI

SUNDAY - AWOKE THIS MORN TO THE SOUNDS OF A MARKET PLACE IN OUR PIAZZA. HOW QUICKLY WE BECOME POSSESSIVE !! HOW FORTICIOUS THAT THIS MONTHLY EVENT SHOULD OCCUR DURING OUR STAY IN FIRENZE. AFTER A CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST IN THE S. BANDINI, WE ARE OFF ON A WALKING TOUR OF THE CITY THAT BEGINS WITH A CIRCUIT OF THE MARKET BENEATH OUR LOGGIA. TRINKETS, FOOD, ANTIQUES - A FLEA MARKET. I BUY A YAMAHA RECORDER (FLUTE), SOMETHING I'VE WANTED FOR SOME TIME. IT'S A WHITE ONE AND THE IRONY OF PURCHASING A USED JAPANESE INSTRUMENT IN ITALY DOESN'T ESCAPE ME. NEXT WE ARE OFF TO THE OTHER END OF TOWN WITH THE PLAN OF TOURING BACK TOWARD OUR PENSIONE. WE DISCOVER A LONG, LONG LINE IN FRONT OF THE ACCEDEMIA, THE HOME OF MICHAELANGELO'S DAVID AND DECIDE TO FIRST FIND A LOO AND A SANDWICH WHICH WE TAKE BACK AND CONSUME IN THE MIDST OF A THRONG THAT HASN'T DIMINISHED. IT TAKES JUST ABOUT AS LONG TO MACK OUT AND READ A GUIDE BOOK ABOUT THE ACCEDEMIA AS IT TAKES TO ACHIEVE THE ENTRANCE AND WE ARE CONTENT WITH LIFE'S PROGRESS.

IN LINE WE ARE IN THE MIDST OF A TOUR GROUP THAT IS CRUISING THE MEDITERRANEAN AND BUSING HITHER AND YON TO TAKE IN THE SIGHTS. WHEN I ASK IF THE UFFIZI GALLERY IS ON THEIR LIST, THEY STARE BLANKLY AND QUERY "HUH ?" IT WAS HARD FOR US TO FATHOM THAT HERE WE ALL ARE, A FEW HUNDRED METERS FROM THE LARGEST AND MOST FAMOUS COLLECTION OF RENAISSANCE ART IN THE WORLD AND THEY HADN'T A CLUE.

DAVID IS, YOU KNOW, DAVID. FANTASTIC TO BEHOLD IN THE FLESH, OR IN THE MARBLE. SNAP, SNAP, SNAP, GOES THE SHUTTER. FLASH, FLASH, FLASH, GOES THE FLASH.....IT WAS REALLY QUITE SURPRISING THAT A HERD OF GUARDS WEREN'T SCOLDING THE MASSES FOR USING THE FLASHES, BUT PERHAPS AFTER YEARS OF DISOBEDIENT TOURISTS, THEY HAVE GIVEN UP.

WE ZIP THROUGH THE REST OF THE GALLERY PAUSING AT SEVERAL UNFINISHED MICHELANGELOS'. LARGE MARBLE PIECES OF STRUGGLING MEN TRYING IN VAIN TO ESCAPE THEIR BONDS OF STONE. THEY ARE KNOWN AS THE PRISONERS OR SLAVES. ALSO AMONGST THE VAST NUMBER OF CHRISTIAN ICON PAINTINGS ARE TWO NACIENT BOTICELLIS'. EARLY WORK TO BE SURE BUT BOTICELLIS' NONE THE LESS !!

NOW IT'S STAGE LEFT TO THE DUOMO, THE CATHEDRAL , OF FIRENZE. THE GUIDE BOOK SAID THIS IS AN UNIMPRESSIVE BIT OF WORK IN GOTHIC FORM, BUT HEY, I'LL ADMIT IT, I WAS IMPRESSED. I SUPPOSE IT'S GOOD TO BEGIN ONE'S PILGRIMAGE TO EUROPE'S ARCHITECTURAL MARVELS WITH ONE PANNED BY THE CRITICS.....SO MUCH TO LOOK FORWARD TO !! IT IS HUGE !!! COVERED EXTERNALLY WITH GREEN AND PINK MARBLE. MICHELANGELO MODELED HIS DOME ON THE CATHEDRAL IN ROME, ON THIS ONE, AND WHEN DOING SO, STATED THAT, HE HOPED TO BUILD ONE AS MARVELOUS AS THE ONE IN FLORENCE, AS GOOD AS, NOT BETTER. SO WHO ARE THESE LATTER DAY PUNDITS ANYHOW, AND JUST HOW MANY DUOMOS HAVE THEY BUILT ? NOT EVEN ONE, I'LL WAGER. AFTER ALL, MIKEY LIKED IT.

NOW IT'S TWO P M, SIESTA TIME AND THE MUSEUMS ARE CLOSED FOR THE DAY.....VAINLY SEARCHING FOR ESPRESSOS OR GELATO.....WE STRUGGLE BACK ON TIRED LITTLE FEET TO OUR PENSIONE.....BACK, AT THE OPEN AIR MALL FOR A DAY, IT' S A HOGS HEAD CHEESE SANDWICH AND A BEER FOR ME, MY MOM WOULD HAVE BEEN PROUD !! THE HOGS HEAD WAS GREAT BUT FOR ME THE ITALIAN BEER SEEMED LACKING. NOT QUITE THE FULL BODIED BREW ONE WOULD EXPECT FROM A NATION SO CLOSELY ASSOCIATED WITH THOSE MASTER BREWERS THEY TRIED TO CONQUER THE WORLD WITH.

WE THEN QUICKLY POPPED INTO OUR LOCAL CHIESA, THE SANTO SPIRITO, FOR A LOOK SEE, ANOTHER BIG OLD BUILDING, THIS ONE IN THE ROMANESQUE STYLE, WHAT A BORING FACADE (SEE HOW QUICKLY WE CHANGE OUR COLORS, I'M NOW A CRITIC TOO !!) TO MY SURPRISE, HERE I DISCOVER A THOROUGHLY SHOCKING THING, JESUS THE CHRIST WAS A SURFER, AND NOT ONLY THAT, BUT A LONG BOARDER, TOO !! YES, I KNOW IT' S HARD TO BELIEVE, BUT I'LL SWEAR IT'S TRUE. THERE WITHIN THE SANTO SPIRITO HANGS A PAINTING WITH, NEVER TO REACH MIDDLE AGE, JESUS THE CHRIST AND HE'S GOT WHAT APPEARS AT FIRST, SECOND AND THIRD GLANCE TO BE A LONG BOARD !! WITH A LARGE RED CROSS UPON IT'S DECK. IT'S TRUE. I SAW IT. HOW COME I NEVER LEARNED THAT IN CATHOLIC SCHOOL. I SUPPOSE THERE ARE THINGS THE CHURCH JUST DOESN'T WANT THE CONGREGATION TO KNOW ABOUT THE CHRIST MYTH.....THEY WOULD JUST HAVE US BELIEVE THAT IT WAS ALL SUFFERING, MIRACLES AND CRUCIFIXION FOR OUR BOY JESUS.....WELL NOW THE TRUTH CAN BE KNOWN.....HE WAS HANGING TEN OFF SHORE IN ISRAEL. I PAUSED TO WONDER IF HE PREFERRED A REEF OR POINT BREAK, A SAND BOTTOM OR WHAT ? HOW MUCH ROCKER DID HE LIKE ? WAS HE A MULTI FIN OR SINGLE FIN KIND OF GUY AND DID HE USE A LEASH. PROBABLY NOT AS HE WAS GOD, AFTER ALL, AND PROBABLY NEVER LOST HIS BOARD. I SUPPOSE WE'LL NEVER KNOW TILL THE SECOND COMING, WHEN WE CAN ASK HIM. I'VE COME TWICE BEFORE, I YELLED, PREPARE FOR THE SECOND COMING, BUT I WAS YOUNG AND HEY, THAT'S ANOTHER STORY.

I absolve you of all your sins, go in peace.

AFTER HANGING WITH MY NEW SURF BUDDY, WE WENT UP TO THE LOGGIA AND I PAINTED THAT VIEW OF THE STEEPLE OF THE S. SPIRITO WHERE JESUS HAS THAT BOARD TUCKED UNDER HIS ARM. I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT HE HAD ON SOME FUNKY SURF TRUNKS, WITH NICE DRAPERY AND TASSELED STRINGY HAIR, JUST LIKE HE HAD COME FROM A RAD SURF SESSION (RASTA MON VIBRATION, OOH, OOOOOHHHH) AND FROM THE LOOK OF THE CHIAROSCURO IN THIS PAINTING, IT JUST MAY HAVE BEEN A DAWN PATROL SESSION.....EXCELLENT !!

NAP TIME, DREAMING OF SURFING WITH JESUS.....WALKIN ON WATER AND ALL THAT JIVE.....HEY......MAYBE THAT'S HOW HE DID IT.....MIRACLES, HUH !!! HHUUMMMMMM..

WAKE UP AND OH, OH, HERE IT COMES AGAIN.....HUNGER STRIK---E--S... THE INNER MAN SCREAMS.....MANGIA, MANGIA, EAT, EAT !!SO OFF WE GO TO DEI QUATTRO LEONI, DIDN'T SEE ANY LIONS HOWEVER, NOT EVEN ONE.....VINO ROSSA, GNOCCHI, NOT AS GOOD AS MINE, BUT NON CÉ MALO, INVOLTINO, A CURED SLICE OF FILET, WRAPPED ABOUT A DOLLOP OF RICOTTA AND SERVED WITH SOME KIND OF SUSPECT GREENS, WHICH WAS QUITE GOOD AND MAN O MAN, .....PIMIENTOS E MELANZANA.....THIS WAS IT.....THE MEALS HIGHLIGHT.....SAUTÉED, RED BELL PEPPERS WITH GRILLED EGGPLANT, SLICED LENGTH WISE, SMOTHERED WITH OLIVE OIL. IT ALSO CONTAINED FINELY MINCED GARLIC AND BASIL, FRESH BASIL, IT WAS GREAT. A NICE ADDITION WOULD BE CAPERS, I THINK. OH YEA, SOME RED CHILIES TOO, UMM ....SMOKY FLAVOR!!.....WANDER,... WANDER,... GO HOME... JOURNAL,... LOG OFF.....ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzz.

MONDAY, OCT. 9: GET UP EXCITED ABOUT THE CHAGALL SHOW.....A CHANCE TO SEE SOME MODERN ART.....ALL THE REST OF THE MUSEUMS ARE CLOSE ON MONDAYS BUT THE FIRENZE OGGI ASSURED US THAT THIS ONE IS OPEN. HA !!!!! IT ALSO HAD A PROVISO THAT IT WAS IRRESPONSIBLE.....THEY WERE.....IT WAS CLOSED...WE DRIFTED AROUND AIMLESSLY, DROPPING INTO VARIOUS DUOMOS.....BIG...HO HUM...ARCHITECTURAL WONDERS. ONE HAD MICHELANGELOS TOMB IN IT. PRETTY COOL...ALSO LOTS OF OTHER TOMBS. MANY IN THE FLOOR, STRANGE FOR THE CHURCH TO BE SELLING FLOOR SPACE FOR BURIALS...THESE WERE FOR THOSE WHO COULDN'T AFFORD THE WALLS, WHERE THE FAB AND GROOVY HAVE BEEN ENSCONCED. ALSO STRANGE ABOUT THE FLOOR DUDES.....HERE THEY THOUGHT THEY WERE BUYING INTO ETERNAL NOTORIETY WITH SCULPTED LIFE-SIZE FIGURES, IN MARBLE, WITH THEIR LITTLE HEADS ON PILLOWS, AND THROUGH THE AGES, THEIR NAMES AND FIGURES HAVE BEEN WORN DOWN TO INCOMPREHENSIBILITY BY THE COUNTLESS FEET OF PILGRIMS TO THEIR SHRINE. HA.....ASHES TO ASHES...MARBLE TO DUST.

AFTER COPPING UN PO OF THIS AND ¼ KILO OF THAT, PLUS A LITTLE BREAD, WE SAT ON THESE WONDERFULLY PICTURESQUE STEPS, ALONE, OVERLOOKING THE RIVER ARNO AND THE CITY BEYOND AND SPREAD OUR LITTLE CLOTH AND HAD A MAVVALUSSS LUNCH, DARLING !!

Vangi @ Forte de Belvedere

SERENDIPITIOUSLY WE WANDERED UP THOSE ABOVE MENTIONED STEPS INTO THE HINDER LAND OF THE HILLS OF THE ALTRO ARNO. WE CAME UPON FORTE DE BELVEDERE, WHICH TURNED OUT TO BE HAVING A SHOW OF SCULPTURE BY GIULIANO VANGI.....HERE TO FORE UNBEKNOWNST TO US...THE FORTE IS SITUATED HIGH ON THE HILL, OVERLOOKING THE CITY AND SET ABOUT IT'S SPACIOUS GROUNDS WAS A FANTASTIC DISPLAY OF ART MODERNE !! ALL FIGURATIVE, SOME VERY REALISTIC, SOME QUITE ABSTRACTED, ALL FANTASTIC. IT WAS A THRILL TO COPP A FEEL OF SOME OF THEIR SENSUOUS RUMPS AND BREASTS. OUT OF VIEW OF THE GUARDS, OF COURSE, AND WHILST SO FEELING, REALIZING THAT THE ARTIST FOR SURE MUST BE, LIKE MYSELF, RIGHT HANDED.

MY LOVE ROSEMARY AND I FOUND OURSELVES STROLLING DOWN THE HILL BY ANOTHER CIRCUITOUS ROUTE ALONG THE OLD ROMAN WALL TO THE CITY.....WOW !! ROAMING THROUGH THE TOWN WE WERE SUDDENLY ENVELOPED BY A HUGE GROUP OF JAPANESE TEENAGERS AND I FELT AS IF, MAGICALLY TRANSPORTED TO YET ANOTHER LAND, IN ANOTHER TIME.

AGAIN WE DINED AT CASALINGA, WHICH AS NEAR AS I CAN FIGURE MEANS HOME COOKING. NOT MY HOME, NOT YOUR HOME, BUT SOMEBODY'S' HOME, I'M SURE.

CROSTINE
SMALL SLICES OF BREAD TOASTED AND SPREAD WITH A CHICKEN LIVER PATE

MINESTRONE DE CAVALO
PUREED BEAN SOUP (WHITE), WITH RICE AND MINCED PARSLEY, SPRINKLED WITH PARMESAN CHEESE

RAVIOLI BURROE SALVIA
STUFFED WITH RICOTTA AND SPINACH, SAUTÉED WITH BUTTER AND SAGE

CONIGLIO IL FORNO
OVEN GRILLED RABBIT BASTED WITH OLIVE OIL

INSALADA MISTA.....TIRAMISú.....
NO NEED TO SAY MORE SO I WON'T !!

TUESDAY, THE BIG DAY, GET UP EARLY, OFF TO THE UFFIZI GALLERY, WAIT IN LINE FOR THREE, YES THREE, HOURS, RUSH IN , GO DIRECTLY TO ROOM EIGHT, FRA FILLIPO LIPPI, TEACHER OF BOTICELLI, OFF TO ROOM NINE, ALL BOTICELLI, BOTICELLI !!! CIRCLE ROOM, VIEW PAINTINGS IN AWE, SIGH, CRY, SIGH SOME MORE.....BOTICELLI !!!!! HOW I LOVE THIS MAN'S WORK.....A ROOM FULL OF IT, WOWIE ZOWIE, FOLKS !! YAHOOOOO !!!!! VIEW REST OF THE GALLERY...THE LARGEST COLLECTION OF ITALIAN RENAISSANCE PAINTINGS IN THE WORLD !! GO BACK TO BOTICELLI ROOM.....YES.....LIFE DOESN'T GET BETTER THAN THIS, NO SIR EEEEEEEEEEEEEE !!!!!

GRAB A BITE AND IT'S OFF TO FRISILE, FRISBY, BUSILY WE BUS ALONG TO THE HILLS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF TOWN TO SEE IF WE CAN GET INTO THE FOUNDATZIONE AND MUSEE DE PRIMO CONTI. ROSEMARY HAS BEEN TRYING ALL WEEK TO GET AHOLD OF HIS DAUGHTERS, MARIA NOVELLA AND MARIA GLORIA, BUT ALAS, IN VAIN...TO THE MUSEE, ANY WHO...I AM EXHAUSTED...FEET SORE AND ANKLE SWOLLEN...IT'S CLOSED...WE RING THE BELL...SORRY, WERE CLOSED, BLA, BLA, BLA,...SORRY WERE CLOSED,....BLA, BLA, I KNOW THE DAUGHTERS, BLA, BLA, BLA.....OKAY, OKAY, COME ON DOWN...THE AUTOMATIC GATES SWING OPEN....WE GO DOWN...YES THE MUSEUMS CLOSED BUT WE ENTER THE HOME OF AND ARE GREETED BY HIS WIDOW, NOW 83, AND HOUSE BOUND, WE VIEW SOME OF HIS WORK THAT SHE HAS IN HER HOME,..... PAINTINGS ,..... SCULPTURE,..... A SMALL PIECE BY BOCCIONI,..... ONE OF MY FAVE RAVES OF THE FUTURISTS' SCHOOL....A PICASSO DOVE...WE CHAT AMICABLY WITH MRS. JEANETTE LUCY ROSEMUNDE CONTI...MUNDE TO HER FRIENDS AND IT TURNS OUT TO US. VERY, VERY, GRACIOUS.....SHE INSCRIBES A BOOK OF HER LATE HUSBAND'S WORK, ASKING,... IS IT OKAY IF IT'S IN ITALIAN? I'M VERY OLD AND I DON'T REMEMBER MY ENGLISH SO WELL.....WELL YES...BUT OF COURSE...SHE THEN GENEROUSLY GIVES THE BOOK TO US....I AM WHELMED AND FEEL QUITE HUMBLE AND BLESSED !!

WALK BACK TO THE TOWN OF FRISCEOLY? HAVE A JAMESON'S IRISH WHISKEY AND MY FEET FEEL BETTER....BUS BACK TO FIRENZE AND SUCCUMB TO FATIGUE, STOP IN A SHOP, GET UN PO OF THIS, UN PO OF THAT AND BACK TO OUR PENSIONE.....HAVE SOME VINO ROSSO AND FALL ASLEEP WITH ROSEMARY LOVINGLY RUBBING MY FEET.....AAHHH...FIRENZE.......AAHHH.......ROMANCE !!!!!

                                                                            Another tale in life's continuing saga by Raymond Ellstad