During an uninspired meal we see a gentleman grilling some fresh sardines over glowing coals and when we ask, we are told that they are only for the family. I ask the man what would it take to become a member of his family and he queries his wife about giving us some fish. She says ‘absolutely not under any circumstances’ in loud voice and in may ways. I exchange glances with the victim of these cross words and recognize a fellow human that is negatively suggestive and tell Rosemary that I bet we get some fish. She doubts it of course but we are pleasantly surprised when he does deliver the goods. Sweet indeed, since they were forbidden. I tell the waitress later that la sinora is not very happy with me and she only smiles widely her agreement. Score one for men! Men, Men, Men, Men!!!

Upon arising it’s breakfast of course and after viewing the aforementioned church it’s up the hill to the Hermitage of San Juan de la Pena.

An 11th century monastery built in a cave with a Romanesque cloister. Also here, underground, a chapel where once the Holy Grail was hidden from the Moors. Wasn’t that also featured in a flick by Monty Python?

The original hermitage is great but in the 16th & 18th centuries there were those with huge egos who desecrated this ancient monument with chapels of their own. Rather like grafting something by Disney on the Notre Dame.

Above there is a 15th century monastery crumbling and under restoration of course. It looks much more modern than that being made of red brick. Here also is the car park where we saw a fleet of autos from the 20’s and 30’s of this century that were on a rally from Jaca.